Archive for the Patterns Category

Free American Flag Knitting Patterns

Dec 27th, 2009 Posted in Patterns | Comments Off on Free American Flag Knitting Patterns

American Flag
Instructions for 9" x 7" rectangle. Make several and sew them together for a throw.

American Flag Spiral Hat
Easy to knit pattern for adults.

Red, White And Blue Socks
Red, white and blue adaption of a basic sock pattern for women knit at 7 st/inch.

Toe-up Sock Pattern

Dec 26th, 2009 Posted in Patterns | Comments Off on Toe-up Sock Pattern

by Wendy Johnson
editor's note: knitting tow-up is a great way to ensure you've got enough yarn for the sock pattern. Divide your total yarn amount into two balls of yarn and knit your cuff to the desired length or until you run out of yarn. Having reserved the second ball, you know you've got enough to complete two socks.

Size: women's medium (large)

Note: You can adjust this pattern for any size, any gauge. Measure around the ball of your foot. Multiply the number of inches you get by the number of stitches you get per inch when you do a gauge swatch. Then subtract 10% from that total. Fudge your number so it’s divisible by 4. This will make a nice, snug-fitting sock. This pattern is written using 60 stitches around for the sock, with changes for 64 stitches in parentheses.

Gauge: 8st/inch -- I use US size 0 (2mm) needles with sock yarn. Your mileage may vary -- check your gauge!

Start Your Toe
Using a provisional cast-on, cast on 30 (32) stitches (half the total circumference of the sock). I do my provisional cast-on using a crochet chain as follows:

Using waste yarn, crochet a chain that is several chain stitches longer than the number of knit stitches you need. Knit into the center loops of the back side of the chain, 30 (32) stitches. Purl back across stitches.

Row 1: Knit 29 (31) stitches. Move the working yarn as if to purl. Slip the last, unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle. Turn your work.

Row 2: Slip the first, unworked, stitch from the left needle to the right needle. Purl the next stitch (you will have wrapped that first stitch around its base with the working yarn) and purl across to the last stitch. Move the working yarn as if to knit and slip last stitch. Turn.

Row 3: Slip the first stitch and knit across to the last stitch before the unworked stitch. Wrap and turn.

Row 4: Slip the first stitch and purl across to the stitch before the unworked stitch. Wrap and turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until 8 (9) of the toe stitches are wrapped and on left side, 14 (14) stitches are "live" in the middle, and 8 (9) are wrapped and on the right. At this stage, you should be ready to work a right side row. Your toe is half done.

Note: How many stitches you leave unworked in the middle depends on how wide you want your sock toe to be. If you want it a bit wider, do a couple fewer short rows. If you want it a bit narrower, do a couple more short rows.

Now you'll work the second half of the toe:

Row 1: Knit across the 14 live stitches across to the first unworked, wrapped stitch. To work this stitch, pick up the wrap and knit it together with the stitch.

Wrap the next stitch (so that it now has two wraps) and turn.

Row 2: Slip the first (double-wrapped) stitch and purl across to the first unworked, wrapped stitch. Pick up the wrap and purl it together with the stitch. Wrap the next stitch and turn.

On subsequent rows you will pick up both wraps and knit or purl them together with the stitch.

Continue until you have worked all the stitches and you once again have 30 (32) "live" stitches.

When all 30 (32) stitches are once again "live," divide those stitches over 2 needles. Unzip your provisional cast-on and divide those 30 (32) stitches over 2 more needles. On your first round, you may want to pick up an extra stitch or two between the "live" stitches and the stitches you've picked up from the cast-on, to close up any holes there might be there. On the next round remember to decrease back down to 15 (16) stitches per needle.

Note: Insert the tip of your needle into the stitch you knit up from the provisional cast-on before you unzip the chain – this will make it much easier to pick up the loops of the stitches. I usually insert my needle through four or five loops at a time, unzip the chain from them, do the next four or five loops, unzip, until I’ve picked them all up. When you unzip your provisional cast-on, you will have one less stitch than the total you picked up and knit. You can create that extra stitch at the end, by picking up the loop between the last stitch created with the provisional cast-on and the first live stitch.

You now have a total of 60 (64) stitches.

Work straight until the foot is about 2 inches shorter than the desired finished length. Place the 30 (32) instep stitches on one needle and put the 30 (32) heel stitches on another needle. work a short row heel on the 30 (32) heel stitches as for the toe, as follows.

Short Row Heel

Row 1: Knit 29 (31) stitches. Move the working yarn as if to purl. Slip the last, unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle. Turn your work.

Row 2: Slip the first, unworked, stitch from the left needle to the right needle. Purl the next stitch (you will have wrapped that first stitch around its base with the working yarn) and purl across to the last stitch. Move the working yarn as if to knit and slip last stitch. Turn.

Row 3: Slip the first stitch and knit across to the last stitch before the unworked stitch. Wrap and turn.

Row 4: Slip the first stitch and purl across to the stitch before the unworked stitch. Wrap and turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until 8 (9) of the heel stitches are wrapped and on left side, 14 (14) stitches are "live" in the middle, and 8 (9) are wrapped and on the right. At this stage, you should be ready to work a right side row. Your heel is half done.

Note: How many stitches you leave unworked in the middle depends on how wide you want your sock heel to be. If you want it a bit wider, do a couple fewer short rows. If you want it a bit narrower, do a couple more short rows.

Now you'll work the second half of the heel:

Row 1: Knit across the 14 live stitches across to the first unworked, wrapped stitch. To work this stitch, pick up the wrap and knit it together with the stitch.

Wrap the next stitch (so that it now has two wraps) and turn.

Row 2: Slip the first (double-wrapped) stitch and purl across to the first unworked, wrapped stitch. Pick up the wrap and purl it together with the stitch. Wrap the next stitch and turn.

On subsequent rows you will pick up both wraps and knit or purl them together with the stitch.

Continue until you have worked all the stitches and you once again have 30 (32) "live" stitches.

When you have all stitches live again, divide the stitches as you did for the toe. Once again, on your first round, you may want to pick up an extra stitch or two between the "live" stitches and the stitches you left on a needle for the instep, to close up any holes there might be there. On the next round remember to decrease back down to 15 (16) stitches per needle.

Work until the leg is the desired length to the ribbing, then work in ribbing to the desired finished length.

Note: Individuals with wide feet and/or heavier legs might find it difficult to get socks on and off. I sometimes increase stitches when I start the ribbing for the cuff. If I start out with 15 stitches per needle, I’ll increase to 16 stitches per needle, and do a k4 p4 rib. If I start out with 16 stitches per needle, I’ll increase to 18 stitches per needle, and do a k3 p3 rib. As you can see, it’s not an exact science – you can fudge wherever you feel the need to, to suit the sock’s recipient.

Cast off loosely.

Free Knitting Patterns

Dec 26th, 2009 Posted in Patterns | Comments Off on Free Knitting Patterns

free knitting patterns for socks, babies, children, scarves, shawls, hats, sweaters and more

Socks

Toe-Up Socks

Baby and Children

Simple Baby Hat
Easy Children's Mittens

Scarves & Shawls

Easy Laceweight Leaf Scarf

Other Themes

American flag patterns (hat, flag, socks)

Little Leaf Scarf

Dec 26th, 2009 Posted in Patterns | Comments Off on Little Leaf Scarf

This effective, easy-to-knit lace scarf is a good beginner lace knitting project. This leaf scarf pattern is an original design by Sivia Harding.

Scarf dimensions: 10.5" wide x 41" long

Materials:
Laceweight/fingering weight yarn - approximately 200 yds
3.75 mm circular needle
tapestry needle
stitch markers

Gauge:
5 sts and 7 rows/in. (blocked) over lace pattern

Little Leaf Lace Pattern:
Row 1 (and all WS rows): Purl
Row 2: K1, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1. Repeat from * across.
Row 4: K3, *yo, sl 1 - k2tog - psso, yo, k5. Repeat from * across, ending last repeat k3.
Repeat these 4 rows for pattern.

Notes:
1. Start each row: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k2.
2. End each row: k3.

Instructions:
Cast on 47 sts. Knit 5 rows (garter stitch).
Row 6 (and all WS rows): K3, place marker, purl across, pm, k3
Row 7 (and all RS rows): Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k2, pass marker, knit across in pattern, pm, k3.
Repeat rows 1 - 4 of pattern 64 times (256 rows).
Knit 5 rows (garter stitch).
Bind off loosely. Weave in ends and block scarf.

Child’s Mitten

Dec 26th, 2009 Posted in Patterns | Comments Off on Child’s Mitten

A knitting pattern for children's mittens adapted by Sivia Harding. Woolfestival is happy to bring you this free pattern for knitting simple children's striped mittens. This child's mitten knitting pattern is based on Elizabeth Zimmerman’s adult mitten pattern and has been adapted for children's mittens with stripes by Sivia Harding.

Gauge:
5 sts= 1" for a mitten measuring approx. 3-1/2" from side to side and 6" from top to bottom

Materials:
Worsted-weight wool in 2 colors - sm. amount
3.25 mm double-pointed needles, or size to obtain gauge
stitch holder or thread
tapestry needle

Instructions:
Cast on 28 stitches and distribute on 3 double-pointed needles.

For next 8 rounds, work K3, P1 rib

Next round - decrease, working (K2, SSK) 7 times around (21 sts)

For next 3 rounds, knit even.

Next round - increase, working (K3, M1) 7 times around (28 sts)

For next 9 rounds, knit even. (Note: If stripe is desired, work 7 rounds in MC, then change to CC and work 2 more rounds)

Next row - start thumb: For right mitten, knit 1 st, put next 5 sts on holder or thread, cast on 5 sts using backwards loop cast on, then continue knitting around. For left mitten, knit 22 sts, put next 5 sts on holder or thread, cast on 5 sts using backwards loop cast on, then finish the round by knitting 1 st.

Knit 14 rounds even (Note: for striped mitten, continue knitting w/ CC for 7 rounds, then change to MC for 7 more rounds)

Next round - decrease, working (SSK, K3, K2tog) 4 times around. (20 sts)

Next round - knit even

Next round - decrease, working (SSK, K1, K2tog) 4 times around (12 sts)

Next round - decrease, working (SSK, K1) 4 times around (8 sts)

Pull yarn through remaining sts and fasten.

Thumb:

Put 5 held sts on needle and knit across. (If working stripe, use CC.)

Pick up one stitch on each side and 6 sts from cast-on sts on top, giving you 13 picked up sts for thumb.

Distribute on 3 needles.

Knit 9 rounds even.

Next round - decrease, working (K1, SSK) 3 times and (SSK) 2 times. (8 sts)

Pull yarn through remaining sts and fasten.

If necessary, close hole on side of thumb with yarn tail. Weave in ends.

Simple Baby Hat

Dec 21st, 2009 Posted in Patterns | Comments Off on Simple Baby Hat

Simple Baby Hat Top ViewThis simple baby hat pattern is easy for even for beginners. Like our other free knitting patterns for babies, this easy baby hat pattern uses a combination of the double cast on stitch, the garter stitch, the stocking stitch and a perfect k2tog bind off. You will quickly learn why this is considered one of the easiest crochet baby hat knitting patterns.

Info For Beginners
K=Knit (ie, K7=Knit 7 stitches)
General Info on how to Knit and follow a pattern, is available here.
The Double method of casting on, which is neat and gives you an already-knitted row, is shown here!

Sizes
Small (12-18 months) to fit head 17 inches circumference
Medium (3-5 yrs) to fit head 19 inches circumference
Large (6-8 yrs) to fit head 21 inches circumference

Materials
Set of US size 6 (or 4mm) double-pointed needles
worsted weight yarn

Gauge
4 1/2 stitches/inch
6 rows/inch

Simple Baby Hat Side ViewThe Basic Hat
Instructions are for the smallest size, with larger 2 in parentheses. To alter hat to account for different gauge or size, just
remember to keep the number of initial stitches divisible by 8. (I've used 72; you may use 80, 88, etc)

Cast on 72 (80, 88) sts and join to form a round.
Knit 6 (8, 8) rows of garter stitch
Knit stocking stitch until you reach 2 1/4 (2 1/2, 2 1/2) inches in from bottom edge of hat

Decrease for top
[K7 K2tog] repeat to end of round. Knit 2 rounds
[K6 K2tog] repeat to end of round. Knit 2 rounds
[K5 K2tog] repeat to end of round. Knit 2 rounds
[K4 K2tog] repeat to end of round
[K3 K2tog] repeat to end of round
[K2 K2tog] repeat to end of round
[K1 K2tog] repeat to end of round

[K2tog] repeat, until only 1 stitch remains
Break yarn, thread through stitch, and fasten off neatly.
Sew in all loose ends.

Optional Touches
The red "row" was added afterwards with a loose crochet: one crochet stitch for each knit stitch.
As an obvious alternative, one could knit it in, instead, as the first stocking stitch row. One could also cross-stitch the row. Also, I ended up crocheting ear-flaps on it, for warmth and to keep it on the head!